Saturday 19 April 2014

Ham Tin Beach Life

There are 4 beaches at Tai Long Wan ('Big Wave Bay'), of which we visited 2.

The largest is Tai Wan ('Big Bay') separated from Ham Tin village by a small headland.   It is apparently dangerous for swiming because of  strong rip currents.   In the photo below I think we can see two places with gaps in the breakers and deep blue channels in the sand where the rip currents run.   There is lovely camping on the grass above the beach, but no toilets or shop so we chose to camp at Ham Tin.


Traveling in style -one of the many big cruisers moored in the bay.   I'm guessing these are 2 'banker boats' on the right, and the customers' boat is the one on the left.   A popular outing for the 1% is to cruise in their 'gin palaces' to remote and tranquil beaches and then roar up and down on jet-skis.


Ham Tin village has 2 beachside restaurants, the Hoi Fung and the On Kee Store, and a lovely beach just across a small creek.


Ham Tin beach is safer for swimming, and is more popular for camping since it has official campsite with a toilet block.    Good food and refreshments are available at the 2 restaurants.   There is also 3-bar 3G reception so you won't need to suffer withdrawal from your  i-phone addiction (as long as you bring spare chargers).

By the late afternoon, there were about more than 200 people camping on the beach, swimming, frolicking and playing beach volley-ball, and a steady stream of young men carrying cold beers across the bridge from the store.


In the evening we were joined at our campsite by a party of Americans with their chinese girlfriends, who pitched their 5 tents next to us in a wide cycle around a campfire.


Hannah, Rika and I enjoyed a lovely dinner at On Kee Store restaurant, and then twilight on the beach.  We went to bed at 9pm when it got dark.   I'd read that there was nothing to do except relax, unwind and listen to the sound of the waves.

Our young American neighbors held a lively beach bonfire, and kept everyone in the party mood with music and fascinating conversations about Facebook until 2:30am.  When it got too quiet and we were in danger of nodding off, they'd set-off fire-crackers, and everyone could share the joke.   Although I didn't record any of the fire-crackers, this video captures the ambience.

Video:  Ham Tin beach - idilic sounds of silence.


We woke at dawn at 6:30am to the sound of birdsong and a remote-control model plane doing circuits of the beach.


Our grey tent in the foreground and our new neighbors in the blue tent 1.5m to our left.


6:30am.  Flying remote-control model-aircraft on the beach in the still dawn air.   This plane is powered by an powerful internal fan, and flies like a real jet.  An impressive but rather noisy toy.


Hannah and I had a lovely ealy-morning walk, and I found the beach just above the waterline was firm enough do a few sets of TaiChi.


Hannah was feeling sick with a return of her cough, fever and sore tummy.



Video:   Ham Tin campsite in the morning

So we cancelled plans to go hiking to the rock pools at Sai Wan beach or climb Sharp Peak.  Instead I booked a speedboat out in the afternoon through Carol Lai at the Hoi Fung store.   Then we lay in the shade on the beach, caught up with sleep, and had a very pleasant lunch at On Kee Store.

4:30pm boarding the speed-boat at Ham Tin beach




Tai Wan from the sea.




The 20min speedboat ride was really fun with great views of the islands around Port Shelter and their impressive basalt formations.


Video:  speed-boat from Tai Long to Sai Kung


Looking south-west from off Long Ke Wan.   We were soon at Sai Kung and got a taxi home by 6pm, and had an early night.


Minimi was very happy to see us come back home, and was especially affectionate and clingy.  Here he is miaowing and telling me to hurry-up to come to bed and give him a cuddle


All in all a good camping trip although rather a Curate's Easter egg, with some good lessons learned for our next trip.   I'm keen to return and try camping at Tai Wan, and to hike over Sharps Peak.





Friday 18 April 2014

Hiking to Tai Long Wan


For the Easter break we planned to go hiking and camping for 2 nights in the Sai Kung Country Park at Tai Long Wan.   This is one of Hong Kong's finest beaches (link) and can only be reached by boat or hiking.
Tai Long Wan from Sharps Peak trail, courtesy of my colleague Emma
We packed on Thursday night and planned to leave early Friday morning.  But we were late leaving and ran into the holiday crowds at Sai Kung queuing for the limited public transport.  Only the few special New Territories taxies can enter the Country Park, so there was there was a double-line around the NT taxi-stand.


And the same for the #94 Bus to Wong Shek Pier.


Hannah waited very patiently for an hour until we got a taxi.  Well done Hannah!


And once we were in a taxi it was a lovely 20min ride through the park to Wong Shek where we readily found a speedboat to take us across Long Harbor to join the Maclehose trail.

Speedboat from Wong Shek Pier

Video:  speedboat on Long Harbour




Everyone ready to start hiking.



We joined the Maclehose Trail Stage 2, and walked uphill for about 40min to the pass overlooking the Tai Wan bay, and another 20min down-hill to the beach

Rika had been training for the hike by doing circuits of Shatin shopping-malls, and Hannah & I didn't have to slow down and wait for her too often.


View looking east from the top of the trail.


Detail:   Tai Wan (Big Beach) on left, Ham Tin (Salty Field) beach on right.


The villages at Tai Long and Ham Tin are almost deserted these days but we saw a few locals.


We had pre-booked a tent at the Hoi Fung restaurant (via the ever-helpful Carol Lai 2328-2315) and set it up with some shade at the official camp-sit on the beach.  



Early afternoon view from our front door.






Sunday 13 April 2014

'Rather a lot of Buddhas' Monastery

We had a quiet day on Sunday and popped into Shatin for shopping.

It was a nice afternoon so I took the opportunity to drag Hannah and Rika to visit the 'Rather a lot of Buddahs' monestary up the hill behind Ikea.


This ancient monastery was founded way back in 1949.   Although it has no resident monks (wiki link) it does have 13,000 buddha statues which give it its name.



Hannah really loved it and can't wait to go back.