Shakuhachi Odyessey - Myoanji

One of my goals in Kyoto was to make a pilgrimage to the Myoan-ji,  the former headquarters of the Fuke sect of shakuhachi playing zen monks.  

Hannah took this portrait of Granddad at Myoanji

Back in Tokyo, a few days later (23-Nov) we had the opportunity to visit a ceremony at another former Fuke sect temple, and hear my teacher Christopher perform.  

Kyoto - Fukushima Inari Shrine

Our last day in Kyoto was 20-Nov.   We split into 2 parties with Rika and Atsuko going shopping while Granny, Grandad, Hannah and I planned to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine and then find the Myoan temple.

Hannah enjoyed the tourist shops at the approach to the shrine.   She wanted to watch these dancing cats again and again.

Actually we had the most memorable start to the day.  Can you guess what happened here?

Thats right.  While watching the cats Hannah did an unexpected poo, so she stuck her hand down her nappy to check, and then wiped her hands on the front of my trousers as I was filming!    Fortunately we Daddys know all about poo-cleaning, and we were soon cleaned up and on our way to the shrine. 

Fushimi Inari is an important Shinto shrine in southern Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and belongs to the shrine grounds.

Fushimi Inari is the most important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital's move to Kyoto in 794.

At the very back of the shrine's main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate covered hiking trail, which starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii ("thousands of torii gates"). The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. The cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate.

After about a 30-45 minute ascent and a gradual decrease in the density of torii gates, visitors will reach the Yotsutsuji intersection roughly half way up the mountain, where some nice views over Kyoto can be enjoyed, and the trail splits into a circular route to the summit. 

Granny and granddad hiked gamely up the trails.   Here they are pretending to be exhausted by the climb. 

For the descent, we turned left and took the trail north along the ridge and down behind Tokufuji shrine, to look for the Myoan temple.  

Hannah and Granddad at Tokufuji

Kyoto - Arashiyama

Arashiyama is a pleasant, touristy district in the western outskirts of Kyoto. The area has been a popular destination since the Heian Period (794-1185), when nobles would enjoy its natural setting. Arashiyama is particularly popular during the cherry blossom and fall color seasons.

We visited on a beautiful clear day with the autumn colours at their peak.  It was lovely

Ranked among Kyoto's five great Zen temples, Tenryuji is the largest and most impressive temple in Arashiyama. The temple was established in 1339, at the beginning of the Muromachi Period(1338-1573), and like many other temples burnt down several times over its history. The current buildings date from the Meiji Period.

Muso Soseki, the temple's founding abbot and famous garden designer, created Tenryuji's landscape garden which, unlike the temple buildings, survived the many fires and is considered one of the oldest of its kind.Tenryuji has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995.

The Saga Romantic Train runs seven kilometers from Arashiyama to nearby Kameoka, mostly alongside the pretty Hozu River. The trains travel at a maximum speeds of about 25 km/h during its 25 minute journey, so passengers can enjoy the scenery without it rushing by too quickly.

Hannah thought it was too noisy when the train went through tunnels so she asked Baba to cover her ears.

The Togetsukyo Bridge is Arashiyama's well known, central landmark. Many small shops, restaurants and other attractions are found nearby, including Tenryuji Temple, Arashiyama's famous bamboo groves and pleasure boats that are available for rent on the river.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park.

This is Rika doing her impression of Kondo Isami outside the Imperial Palace.

Granny, Granddad and baba outside the tradesman's entrance

The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. The enthronement ceremonies of Emperors Taisho and Showa were still held in the palace's main hall, but the present Emperor's ceremony took place at the Tokyo Imperial Palace.

Hannah took these photos while I carried here in the Deuter.

Rika and autumn colour

Granny and Grandad

Granddad and Baba

Kyoto - Takao

Takao is a thinly populated, mountainous region of Kyoto that lies to the north of the Arashiyamadistrict. Takao offers visitors scenic natural landscapes, and is known throughout Japan as a site for viewing the autumn leaves. The best time to see the colored leaves is usually around mid November.

In addition to its fall colors, Takao is popular for its temples. Kozanji Temple dates back to 774 and is recognized as a World Heritage Site. Inside Kozanji, visitors can see Japan's first manga. On display in the Sekisui-in building, a former emperor's study hall, the scrolls depict caricatures of animals which satirize the courtly life of the Heian Period.

In another first, Kozanji claims to be the original site of tea cultivation in Japan. The founder of Japanese Zen Buddhism, Eisai, is believed to have imported the tea plants along with religious teachings from China. The original tea plantation has recently been restored for visitors to see.

Saimyoji Temple was originally built as a detached temple of Jingoji. The vermilion covered Shigetsukyo Bridge, which leads over a river to the temple entrance, is thought of as particularly beautiful.

Jingoji Temple is located at the top of a very long set of stone stairs. Though it makes for an impressive approach, it may also be too difficult a walk for some. At the temple there are numerous buildings and a path that leads to an impressive vista over the valley. Small clay discs with inscriptions on them can be purchased to throw into the valley for good luck.