Sunday, 28 July 2013

Kaji Makura

On our first Sunday in Tokyo I had a Shakuhachi lesson with Christopher.    Since my last lesson back in May I've been working on a piece called 'Kaji Makura'.  I'd found this piece quite difficult as it introduces some new fingering technique (re meri), and it took me a long time to get a sense of the music.

When I start a new piece I often don't know what it should sound like (I often can't obtain a recording).  The music emerges gradually as I practice the piece from the sheet music, first getting the notes in tune, then the rhythms, then speeding it up closer to the speed it is supposed to be played.

Activities of the Twelve Months in Edo: December. By Toyohara Chikanobu (1838-1912).  
In the lesson the goal is to play the entire piece straight through with the teacher and do well enough to 'pass' and move on to the next piece.  Christopher is teaching the traditional way which is to cover a syllabus of about 73 sankyoku (chamber music) pieces, many of which are very similar, before starting on the Buddhist 'honkyoku' pieces, (which is my real goal).    Sankyoku pieces were generally written for shamisen, koto and shakuhachi and are basically Edo period pop music.  I am currently on number 15, so at current my rate of lessons I have at least 10 more years of sankyoku before I can start learning honkyoku!

Another phenomenon is that when you play with and for your teacher you playing is much worse than usual.  I generally don't get properly warmed up (which 'calibrates' the mouth positions to hit the different notes), and the effect of stress on your mouth also helps knock your airstream off-target, so that notes I have been hitting confidently in practice sound worse or disappear entirely.   Also we often play the piece at a different speed from how I practiced it, which rather throws me.   This is all normal and the teacher makes allowances for it in evaluating your progress.

Anyway this lesson was a shocker.  I had to bring Hannah who wouldn't sit still and was distracting.   I was missing much more notes than usual and couldn't find the rhythms in the music that Id been playing in my practice.  And I'd also misread some parts of the music when Id practiced.   And I had even more trouble than usual keeping the beat.   So, understandably Christopher gently suggested that I should work on the piece some more.    Not a good result for 3 month practice on a piece didn't like much!


So I booked another lesson on the Saturday of my flight back to Hong Kong and worked on the piece  intensively all week at Baba's house, trying to make the necessary corrections and adjustments.   I worked on Kaji Makura until I got a much better sense of the music and found that I rather liked it.   And kept going until I was rather sick of it again, but felt I could play it through pretty decently.  

Of course, during the lesson it still fell apart, and it became obvious I need to do even more work with the metronome to improve my rhythm.  And I still cant play the tegoto at the speed it is supposed to be played.   But at least I 'passed' and can spend the next 3 months on a new piece 'Mama no Kawa'.      



"Kaji Makura 'A Rudder for My Pillow' is one of the finest examples of the kyofu tegoto mono, a sub-genre of sankyoku that reached its peak of development under Kengyo Kikuoka (1792-1847). The form is typical of tegoto mono: two vocal sections, called the mae uta and ato uta, are separated by an instrumental interlude called the tegoto...   A courtesan, her life drifting like the boat upon which she works, longs for a man who will forget her unseemly past and love her for her pure heart".    (source including Japanese at this link)

The dipping oars
Raise clouds of spray
Across the waters.
Firm in their stand,
The bamboo reeds
Make me sad
Through the sleepless nights
On this river boat.

Night after night
My thoughts torment me.
Is it the waves,
My tears,
Or the dew dripping
Through the grass roof,
That soaks my sleeves
Bound up in sorrow?
I drift here and there
To drown my sadness,
With a rudder
As my pillow.

However far
My travel takes me,
Let the final destination
Be the foot of a pine tree
Along the shore.
A firm pledge of love
Is all I ask,
All I ask of you.

I place my heart
In your hands.
Hold it there
Forever and ever.


Geishas on a balcony by the Kamo River in Kyoto with their students (Maikos). c. 1920 
"Mama no Kawa, literally 'The River of Let It Be,' refers to the despair of a courtesan who, having given up her struggle with faithless love, views her life in the floating world with sad resignation. The song is composed in the typical tegoto-mono form".   (link)

Is a dream a floating world,
Or a floating world a dream?
Living in a quarter
Called 'Dream Village,'
Yet pining for a man from the
River of Memory.
Seduced by his honey-tongued
Sincerity one night,
I drifted with him
Along the River of Wedlock.

But his heart was
Cool as water,
And he visits me
With the fragrance
Of others
On his collar and sleeves.
Of all the nerve!
Awakened by the 'Kawai, kawai'
Of the morning crow,
Tears of vexation flow
Into the River of Let it Be.

There are some videos of 'Mama no Kawa' on You Tube although the ensemble version together with Shamisen and koto sounds to me quite different from the solo shakuhachi part.




Saturday, 27 July 2013

Tokyo

For our summer holiday we flew to Japan for 10 days to visit Baba.  

As usual we stayed a couple of nights in Tokyo.   We met up with Kyo chan for a Jojo-lunch at Rika's favorite yaki-niku restaurant Jojo-en in Hatsudai.   There are many yaki-niku restaurants in Hong Kong but we haven't found any that are anywhere as good.




The view from Jojo-en in Opera City.  The square beige buildings are the Hyatt Regency Shinjuku where we stayed.

Hannah was able to visit her old playgrounds at Shinjuku central park.



A highlight for Hannah was visiting the Harry Potter Exhibition at Roppongi Hills.


This exhibition of costumes and props was very impressive and a lot more interesting than I expected, and gave a good sense of the design and artistry that went into making the world of Harry Potter come alive in the films.    (Unfortunately I wasn't allowed to take any photos).

But the exhibition shop at the end was even more impressive, with a veritable Daigon Alley of merchandising.    Two large rooms with a scrum of kids choosing scarfs, mugs, books, photos clothes, wands, chocolate frogs, jellybeans, etc.  Reproduction broomsticks flying off the shelves.


Harry Potter glasses and wand set


Ron Weasley chopsticks.


Hannah bought me a Gryffandor tie to wear to work ('old school tie' is still important in the City).    And after a 30min stand-off we limited Hannah to one wand, some cards and a pack of Bertie Bott's Every Flavour Beans.


Then we metup with old friends from Hannah's school,  Rin-chan and Lila, and of course Rinchan-mama and Lila-mama





Lila drew this cute note for Hannah and Rinchan.




Thursday, 25 July 2013

Ocean Park

We enjoyed Ocean Park so much we decided to visit again take advantage of my holiday and one of our few remaining weekends living nearby.

Ocean Park  'Old Hong Kong'.

This visit we took the cable car to the other half of the park which is perched on a peninsular between Deepwater Bay and Aberdeen and has most of the rides.   Hannah was too short for most of the rides but she did get to go on one of the roller-coasters.


View across Deepwater Bay with Parkview on the horizon.

Video: ocean park

La nourriture pour chat

Minimi's vet  recently advised us to give him more 'wet food' to ensure that he doesn't get dehydrated as older cats are prone to.

So we have switched from 'Whiskas' to 'MonPetit' by the Japanese company Purina.    The expensive little sachets contain fish or meat in tasty sauces using recipes from Georges Auguste Escoffier's classic 'Le Guide Culinaire Pour Les Chattes'.



To say Minimi is delighted by his new diet would be an understatement.   He has becomes obsessed by food and much more assertive in demanding it.  He  taps me on the arm from 6:30 am to try to speed up breakfast, and starts asking for more food about 10 minutes after being fed.     When I come home he always tries to tell me how Rika forgot to feed him all day and that he is almost fainting with starvation.



Minimi also wants us to buy the legendary 'Miaou' by Paul Bocuse ("the brand french cats ask for by name") but unfortunately Fusion doesn't stock it. 

Video:   


Bouillabaisse de crevettes et thon
Saute de blanchaille et thon, sauce vénitienne


Blanquette de poulet et carorotte, sauce suprême
Fricassee de poulet et thon sauce nantua


Homard thermidor  (not shown)
Chateaubriand, sauce bernaise


Escoffier's cat


Saturday, 20 July 2013

Ocean Park - Caricature


To immortalise the occasion of Hannah's birthday, our family sat for a caricature portrait in the 'Old Hong Kong'  section of Ocean Park.  



The artist did me the honour of drawing me chinese, and also younger and better looking than I really am.   I suspect I was a tricky subject with strange features that didn't quite match the inventory of shapes from which she builds her caricatures.


I'm sure there is a an old English joke along the lines that being a caricature artist in China must be the easiest job in the world - 1 billion potential customers who all look the same.     Of course,  I've never thought all chinese look the same, although a colleague once accused me of this when I forgot her name.   But it is also a fact that the physical 'types' and distinguishing features are different from Europeans - hair color for example - in a way that takes a while for your eye to tune in to.



I remember when I first arrived in Japan it seemed strange that 19th century japanese artists would draw Americans as red faced oni (demons).   It doesn't now.   In fact, after almost 10 years living in Asia I often find myself thinking many europeans are rather fat and strange looking, myself included.  










Ocean Park - Summer Splash

During summer Ocean Park has lots of events around the theme of ''summer splash' where kids can play in water and cool off.

After we bought some spare clothes, Hannah made straight for the water slide.   There was almost no wait so Hannah could keep riding it for an hour or so.





The slide even had a photographer taking great shots of kids having a ball.



For lunch we went to the Panda Cafe which appropriately enough serves roasted panda from the great free-range panda ranches of sichuan (not really).   It has a conservation theme with the paper on the trays identifying 3 species of fish including bluefin tuna that are endangered by over-fishing and suggesting that we reduce our consumption of them.


After lunch we sent to see a bird show and then to the children's playground area where there was a bouncy castle and a ride called 'Frog Hopper' which Hannah really liked.






Again, there was essentially no que, so Hannah could ride it again and again....   more than 12 times by her count.


Ocean Park has 3 areas with the main amusement park area being a cable-car ride away over the hill.  We didn't get out of the first section which is aimed at younger kids.  So plenty more to see next visit.


Ocean Park - Pandas and Monkeys


Hannah's birthday treat was a visit to Chris Patten's favourite place in Hong Kong, Ocean Park.  Ocean Park is a zoo, aquarium and amusement park which opened in 1977 funded by the Hong Kong Jockey Club.  It is one of Hong Kongs most popular attractions and the 33rd most visited tourist attraction in the World.   As a non-profit gift to the people of Hong Kong it has a nice family atmosphere with an educational / conservationist theme.



Its also just down the bottom of the hill from Parkview at Deepwater Bay and you can see the roller-coasters from Deepwater Bay beach.   Season tickets are very reasonable so I bought some for Hannah and Rika when we moved to Parkview last year but they didn't use them much.   We were put off by stories of the park being very crowded in the weekends and holidays.   In retrospect this was a big mistake...


Hannah with Popo-chan at the entrance.   I tried to talk Hannah out of taking the doll since I knew I'd end up carrying it, but Hannah trumped that argument with "but its my birthday!".

If you could plan your perfect trip to Ocean Park you would make it warm but not too hot, and overcast so as not to get sunburnt, with a nice breeze.   If you were clever, you would have the HK Observatory forecast 'heavy squally rain' for the weekend to deter crowds, and then issue rain warnings throughout the day promising heaving rain which never quite arrives.   And you'd time your visit to coincide with the Elite Models annual bikini picnic.  Which is pretty much exactly what happened.  Except for the models.

So we arrived at 10am, got our tickets with almost no waiting and then walked straight into the Giant Panda house which is normally famous for its huge queues.

The Panda's were not doing much though.  As if they had heard the weather forecast and decided to have a quiet day indoors.



The Sichuan Golden Monkeys next door were much more fun.  They were very cute, active and alert, although they seemed a bit bored with nothing to do except play chess and watch the endless lines of visitors troop past. 


This one took one look at Hannah and decided to come down from its tree to wish her 'Happy Birthday'.


It was clearly fascinated by Hannah and Popo-chan, and the three of them had a long chat through the glass, much to the excitement of the 60 or so other visitors who crowded round to watch and take photos.





The monkey then retreated to a tree for a while before coming down to Hannah again for another chat with Popo-chan.


So our top tip for Ocean Park - 'bring a doll'.

Rika bought a monkey nuigerumi.