Smog

We have had a number of hazy and high-pollution days recently, and accordingly a lot of comment in the local papers (e.g. SCMP here, here and here).

I found some research from HK university confirming the common impression that many pollutants are worse in winter (Nov-Feb) because the prevailing wind is blowing from the north and the factories of the Pearl River Delta   "NO2, RSP, CO and SO2 - higher (Hong Kong mostly in downwind position of pollution sources of mainland)"  (hku thesis).

Tues 27-Jan 3pm  IFC and Hong Kong Island 

This paper says the pollution is a serious health risk:   "Hedley et al. (2006) suggested that 1.13% increase in all natural causes of death is resulted from each 6.5 km reduction in visibility, where the loss in visibility reflects the degradation in our air quality.   The study also suggested 36,000 to 64,000 hospital bed-days admissions can be avoided annually by improving our air quality from annual average level. In terms of costs, $1 billion to $1.5 billion of health care costs, $0.3 to 0.5 billion of productivity loss and $19 billion of intangible costs can be avoided".

Tues 27-Jan 3pm Stonecutters Island

So we regularly check the air quality using the AQICN website, (which also covers China, Japan and Europe).  The index for Hong Kong is often at unhelthy levels, and usually much higher than say, Tokyo or London.

For example, at the time I took the photos above, this site rated the air quality in Hong Kong as 'unhealthy', mainly due to RSPs  respirable suspended particle  measured by PM 2.5 (fine particles diameter of 2.5 micrometres or less) and PM10 (particles with diameter of 10 micrometres or less).

AQICN Tues 27-Jan 3pm

The index for Shatin, the closest monitoring station to our apartment and Hannah's school, was actually worse than central Hong Kong!   Which is consistent with the current pollution being from factories in the mainland rather than domestic sources in Hong Kong.   For most of rest of the year pollution in Shatin is lower than in Hong Kong or Kowloon because it is isolated from the main urban center.

AQICN Tues 27-Jan 3pm

At the same time, the Hong Kong government official air quality health indicator (AQHI) presented a more positive picture, as it almost always does.  The health risk in most areas was rated as 'moderate' - 4 or 5 on a scale of 1-11.    Nevertheless even by its lower standards the AQHI data indicates a health problem:   "the number of days deemed dangerous to health using Hong Kong's AQHI stands at about 30 per cent. (Hong Kong's ambient air guidelines are less stringent than those of the WHO.)"  (source : scmp)

AQHI  Tues 27-Jan 3pm

The AQHI measure has was introduced in 2014 along with new Air Quality Objectives.   For example, the objectives set a limits for PM 10 and PM 2.5 over a 24 hour period at 100μg/m3 and 75μg/m3 respectively, and an annual average at 50 μg/m3 and 35 μg/m3.  (AQO link).

This doesn't seem very ambitious:  the annual PM2.5 target is same as for mainland China (35 μg/m3) and much higher than other rich countries' such as EU (25), Japan (15), US (12), and Australia (8).   I believe the WHO limit is 10.   The alignment with China suggests that the Hong Kong health department did not enjoy a 'high degree of autonomy' in setting the target!

Also the target is not much better with the current air quality!  The latest Air Quality Report (2013) reports average PM10 / PM2.5 of about 55/35 respectively for Central and 45/30 for Shatin (AQ Report link) vs the target of 50/35.

Fri 30-Jan 5pm IFC and Central from ICC

Furthermore, meeting the current Air Quality Objectives would not deliver 'safe' air.    "The IARC and WHO designate airborne particulates a Group 1 carcinogen. Particulates are the deadliest form of air pollution due to their ability to penetrate deep into the lungs and blood streams unfiltered, causing permanent DNA mutations, heart attacks, and premature death.  In 2013, a study involving 312,944 people in nine European countries revealed that there was no safe level of particulates and that for every increase of 10 μg/m3 in PM10, the lung cancer rate rose 22%. The smaller PM2.5 were particularly deadly, with a 36% increase in lung cancer per 10 μg/m3 as it can penetrate deeper into the lungs." (wiki link)

Fri 30-Jan 5pm  East Hong Kong Island and Sunset

Of course regardless of the targets, what really matters is progress in reducing actual pollution.   The main sources of pollution are both regional and local:  factories and power plants of the Pearl River Delta, shipping, and domestic vehicles and power plants.

Fri 30-Jan 5pm Sunset over Hong Kong Harbour andLantau

In all these areas action to control pollution lags far behind the US and Europe - standards for vehicle pollution and shipping pollution are much laxer, and Hong Kong still relies on coal for much of its electricity etc. etc.  Some critics argue that this is due to powerful interests in various sectors whose profits benefit from lax controls.   

AQICN Fri 30-Jan 5pm

It is sometimes argued that Hong Kong can't be too unhealthy because HK residents have enjoyed one of the highest life expectancies in the world.  But I wonder if the full effects of the increased pollution have yet to show up in the life expectancy data.  I was interested to read a report in todays SCMP  that lung cancer is the most common cause of cancer deaths in Hong Kong and has increased 30% in the past 10 years.  Although the official commentary from the Department of Health blamed lifestyle factors, and did not mention pollution at all.  

On the positive side the government has done a great job of expanding public transport, has improved pollution monitoring, and from 2014 has a Clean Air Plan (link) with firm actions to reducing the main sources of pollution, albeit on a rather unhurried time-table.   E.g. subsidizing the phasing-out of the dirtiest diesel vehicles.   So we can hope that the air will become somewhat better over the next 5 years.

Wed 11-Feb 5pm  IFC from ICC

Postscript:  11-Feb.   Very bad air today with a lot of haze.  My eyes became itchy when I walked outside.  Both the AQICN and the official AQHI measures rate the air as very unhealthy this evening.

Hong Kong AQICN Wed 11-Feb 9pm

The Hong Kong AQICN is 211, which is as high as Ive seen it.   Whats it like in other cities right now?  Shenzhen 200, Guangzhou (Canton) 227  and Shanghai 173, although Beijing is enjoying clear air tonight at 38.   London (Trafalgar Square) and Tokyo  (Shibuya) are both relatively high by their standards at 113 and 117 respectively.

Shatin AQICN 11-Feb 9pm

I was interested to see that this week's edition of the Economist has not one but three  articles on air pollution!  They quote a study which estimated that particulates pollution has cut life expectancy in northern China by about 5.5 years.   And in the SCMP a Greenpeace was study was reported (link) to estimates that pollution in 31 Chinese cities now kills more people than smoking!

Official AQHI 11-Feb 9pm

What can we do, personally?   Well at home we are running HEPA air purifiers at home (Alen Paralda).   Outdoors wearing face-masks outside is apparently not much use.  Masks are somewhat effective against PM10 but only as much as breathing through your nose.   Most masks are ineffective for the more dangerous PM2.5,  and the masks that are effective are difficult to breath through, putting strain on your heart etc.     I've been a habitual mouth-breather due to childhood asthma, so Im trying to change my habit to nose-breathing.   And Im writing a letter to my MP!

Concert at Yuen Long

After the Ping Shan Heritage Trail we went to the Yuen Long Theater for an afternoon concert by the Hong Kong City Chinese Orchestra.

The concert was very nice with a selection of 10 pieces over about 90 min.  The program notes were very interesting and presented in English as well as Chinese.   Afterwards I enjoyed looking up the Chinese places and stories that had inspired the pieces.   Below are some notes about the pieces I enjoyed most.

Flying Apsaras   "Flying Apsaras is a kind of mural painting found int he Dunhuang Grottoes in Gansu, Northwest China.  It symbolizes the deities of freedom and joy.  The piece opens with a mysterious melody that conjures up a scene of Apsaras coming to life and flying out of the murals...  as the piece dance develops the graceful dance of the goddess becomes increasingly ebullient and reaches it climax...  the music gradually subsides as thought the dancing deities recede into the walls"

"Carved into the cliffs above the Dachuan River, the Mogao Caves south-east of the Dunhuang oasis, Gansu Province, comprise the largest, most richly endowed, and longest used treasure house of Buddhist art in the world. It was first constructed in 366AD and represents the great achievement of Buddhist art from the 4th to the 14th century. 492 caves are presently preserved, housing about 45,000 square meters of murals and more than 2,000 painted sculptures.  (UNESCO link)

Mogao Caves

Listening to the Pines.    "One of the masterpieces of folk musician Hua Yanjun borrows inspiration from a rock engraved with he words 'listening to the pines' at the bottom of Huishan in Wuxi."

Xihui Park is located in the west of Wuxi City , named after Mountians Xi an Hui.   Mt Hui abounds with scenic spots and historical sites. Among them the most famous are Chunshen Ravine, Huishan Temple, and Pleasure Garden.   Huishan Temple is 1500 years old, built in the first years of Northern and Southern Dynasty.  The major relics preserved in the Huishan Temple are Ancient Huishan Gate, Imperial Tablet Pavilion, Stone House of Listening to Pines.

picture link

According to the historic records, Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong often came to the Xihui Park while they were traveling in south China.   Emperor Qianlong was so fond of the scenery in Pleasure Garden that he ordered to build an identical garden in Summer Palace named Garden of Harmonious Interests so that he could visit it in Beijing.   (source).   More recently I note that Wuxi city is sister-city to Hamilton NZ.

"Huishan tea party" by wen depicts Wen Zhengming and a few friends in Wuxi Huishan tea. Two people sit on the ground in chating well, Wen Zhengming unrolling odes, friends in the listening pines...  picture source

Lady Yangs Heavenly Dress.     "A Zheng concerto inspired by a traditional piece carrying characteristics of regional Shanxi opera with haunting expansive phrases and meandering lilt.  The drama of Lady Yangs life and how it ended in tragedy are told with emotive nuances..."

Poster for the 1955 Japanese film Princess Yang Kwei-Fei

"Yang Yuhuan 26 June 719 — 15 July 756, often known as Yang Guifei (literally: 'Imperial Consort Yang') was known as one of the Four Beauties of ancient China.  She was the beloved consort of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang during his later years....    During the An Lushan Rebellion, as Emperor Xuanzong and his cortege were fleeing from the capital Chang'an to Chengdu, the emperor's guards demanded that he put Yang to death because they blamed the rebellion on her cousin Yang Guozhong and the rest of her family. The emperor capitulated and reluctantly ordered his attendant Gao Lishi to strangle Yang to death".  (wiki link)

Lady Yang Guifei

'Honghu Capricco'.  This was a lovely Erhu arrangement based on Aria 'To See to it that All People in the World be Liberated' from the modern opera 'The Red Guards of Hong Lake' (1953, link).  According to the program notes "this piece poignantly portrays the Red Guards' vow to liberate the poor suffering people of Hong Lake from the feudal system".

Red Guards of Hong Lake - original opera

I find it interesting to note that at the time the Red Guards opera was written, about 100,000 refugees per month were fleeing to Hong Kong from the 'liberated' mainland (wiki link),  which more than doubled the territory's population from 1.2m in 1946 to 2.5 million in 1955!   (source).   I wonder if  mainland composers are now working on inspirational songs to support The Party's latest policies -  perhaps 'To see All the People are Liberated from Corruption!'.

In the foyer of the Yueng Long Theatre was an exhibition of students art work.  I was particularly struck by the painting below.  

If the iconography seems unclear, please refer to my earlier post (blog link).

Ping Shan Heritage Trail

I had booked tickets for a Sunday afternoon concert in Yuen Long in the north western New Territories.  So we decided to make a day of it and explore the nearby Ping Shan Heritage Trail (link).   Like the Kam Ting heritage trail which we visited in Oct 2013 (blog link), the Ping Shan trail connects historic places connected with the Tang Clan.  

"Ping Shan in the Yuen Long district is one of Hong Kong’s most historically significant areas and the Tang Clan is one of the major clans in the New Territories who has a long and illustrious history. Tang Hon-fat, the 86th generation ancestor, moved from Jiangxi Province to Guangdong Province in the early period of the Northern Song dynasty (960-1127)....   "   (antiquities and monuments office link)

"During the middle period of the Northern Song dynasty... the great grandson of Tang Hon-fat, expanded his ancestors’ home in Shum Tin (present-day Kam Tin)....   The 7th generation ancestor, Tang Yuen-ching...  moved from Kam Tin to Ping Shan in the 12th century. Tang Yuen-ching is regarded as the first generation ancestor of the Ping Shan lineage."

To get to the trail, we took a taxi from FoTan along Route 9 through Tai Po and Sheng Shui to Yuen Long.  As you can see on the map above, Route 9 passes about 2km from the border with Shenzhen,  a city of about 15 million people.   "one of the most built-up areas in the world...  the city has 23 buildings over 200 m (656 ft)," (wiki link)    But amazingly, due to the pollution and haze, we couldn't see it at all!    We could taste it and feel it though as we drove past - a metallic taste and an itchy sensation in the eyes!

Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda

The trail starts very near the Tin Shui Wai MTR station, a massive futuristic tube looming above what were once rural fields.   The starting point is Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda (Pagoda of Gathering Stars), Hong Kongs only ancient pagoda, believed to have been built in 1486.

"According to the Tang clan the pagoda was originally situated at the mouth of a river facing Deep Bay.  It was intended as a fengshui structure designed to ward-off evil spirits from the north and prevent flooding.  The auspicious location in alignment with Castle Peak, would endure success for clan members in Imperial Civil Service Examinations.  In fact the Tang clan produced numerous scholars and officials in dynastic China. "

Shrine of Earth God - detail

The next stop is a shrine to the Earth God to protect the nearby villages and homes.   "After settling in Ping Shan, the Tang Clan established “Three Wais (walled villages) and Six Tsuens (villages)” - Sheung Cheung Wai, Kiu Tau Wai and Fui Sha Wai, and Hang Tau Tsuen, Hang Mei Tsuen, Tong Fong Tsuen, San Tsuen, San Hei Tsuen and Hung Uk Tsuen.  They later built numerous traditional Chinese buildings such as ancestral halls, temples, study halls and pagoda for ancestral worship and education."

Sheung Cheung Wai gatehouse

The next stop is Sheung Cheung Wai which is about 200 years old.  The gatehouse, shrines, some old house and part of the wall are still standing.    You get a good sense of what the walled village was like to live in.

Sheung Cheung Wai interior

Nearby is the Yeung Hau Temple, a simple temple believed to be several hundred years old and was renovated in 1963 and 1991.

Yeung Hau Temple

 It has 3 bays which house statues of Hau Wong (wiki link), Kam Fa (patron of expectant mothers) and the Earth God.  "

Altar to Hau Hong

"The identity of Hau Wong is the subject of several different stories, but the villagers in Ping Shan believe that he was the Marquis Yang Liangjie, a Song dynasty general who gave up his life to protect the last two Song emperors and who is thus worshipped for his loyalty and bravery"

Altar to Earth God

A short walk through Hang Mei village brought us to the Tang Ancestral Hall.  "Constructed in 1273, this Tang clan ancestral hall is a magnificent three-hall structure.. and is one of the finest examples of these types of buildings in Hong Kong."

It has 2 internal courtyards and an altar with what looked like tablets inscribing names of various ancestors.   Immediately to the right of the Tang Hall is the Yui Kui ancestral hall which was built in the 16th century on a similar plan.

Tang Ancestral Hall

Nearby in the village is the Kun Ting Study Hall which was built in 1870 by Tang Heung-chuen of the 22nd generation of the Tang Clan in commemoration of his father Tang Kun-ting. The study hall provided facilities for both ancestral worship and education.

Kun Ting Study Hall

"Despite the abolition of imperial civil service examinations in the early 20th century, the study hall continued to provide educational facilities for the clan’s younger generations in Hang Mei Tsuen and the surrounding areas until the early post-Second World War period."

At 1pm just as we left the study hall, it was closed-up for a one-hour lunch-break, as were most of the remaining sights on the trail.   Since we had to be at the theatre for 3pm, so didn't have time to wait for them to reopen, so we had to leave them for another time.

Hannah outside Kun Ting Study Hall

"The Ping Shan Tang Clan retains certain traditional customs to this day, such as the organization of various ceremonies during festivals. They not only symbolize the folk culture of the Tang Clan, but also reflect the traditional and unique characteristics of life in Hong Kong’s New Territories.  "

One of the unique sights in Hang Mei village is the beautiful (and beautifully clean) public toilet complete with a courtyard and ornamental pine.  I imagine it would easily win the title of  "Hong Kong's best public convenience" if such a contest existed, albeit against a generally weak field.

Another surprise was the very attractive courtyard outside the Hung Shing Temple.  The center-piece is a nice pool with a large school of koi carp swimming around a 'scholars rock'.  

This reminded me of a friend in London who bought koi carp for the back-garden of his house in Essex only to have them nicked within a few weeks by professional fish thieves!

I wondered if crime in the area has improved so much that villagers who used live in walled villages for safety can now leave expensive fish swimming unattended outside.  Or perhaps the fish receive protection from the god Hung Shing in the temple next door.

Video;  Hannah admiring the fish, and thinking how much Minimi would enjoy watching them

"The Hung Shing Temple is thought to have been built by the Tang Clan in Dinghai (1767) during the Qianlong reign of the Qing dynasty (1644-1911), which is the year inscribed on the board inside the temple. The existing structure was rebuilt in the 5th year of the Tongzhi reign (1866) of the Qing dynasty. Substantial renovation work was carried out in 1963. "

The Hung Shing Temple is a simple building with two halls separated by an open courtyard. In most of the other temples in Hong Kong, open courtyards are roofed over to form incense towers. Providing better lighting and ventilation, the original courtyard design at the Hung Shing Temple has been well preserved and remains one of the temple’s distinguishing features.

"Hung Shing also known as Hung Shing Ye ...  was a government official in the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) named Hung Hei serving Pun Yue in present-day Guangdong, China.  He was a righteous government official who won approbation from the people.  During his tenure in office, he promoted the study and application of astronomy, geography and mathematics, and established an observatory to observe the meteorological changes thus contributing to the well being of people under his governance, especially fishermen and sea traders".   (wiki link)

"After his death, an Emperor of the Tang Dynasty disseminated his virtues to the whole country and bestowed upon him the posthumous title of Nam Hoi Kwong Li Hung Shing Tai Wong lit. the Saint King Hung the Widely Beneficial of South Sea. It is usually shortened to Hung Shing or Tai Wong."

"Legend has it that Hung Shing continued to guard the people against natural disasters on numerous occasions after his death, and showed his presence to save many people during tempests.  The government as well as fishermen in the surrounding area built many temples to worship him as the God of Southern Sea. Hung Shing temples have been widely built in southern China, especially Guangdong province and in Hong Kong. "

House next door to Hung Shing Temple also had an attractive courtyard, and a contented dog dozing on the doorstep.

We were now out of time so skipped the last few stops on the trail and took a taxi to the Yuen Long Theatre.   It was a good day-out and we are keen come visit the rest of the trail next time we have a concert at Yuen Long.

Ping Shan in the early 1900s

Along the trail were some signs showing how the countryside around Ping Shan area used to look.

Ping Shan in the 1980s ?

As you can see from the satellite photos, the old fields in these photos are now covered by a sprawl of New Towns, roads and truck-parks.

Ping Shan today (Google-maps satellite image)