Nogi-jinja

All too soon,  Granny and Granddad's two week stay in Japan was over and they flew home. For their last day in Tokyo we made a special visit to Nogi-jinja, and then to Roppongi to watch the sun-set from the roof of Roppongi Hills tower.

Nogi Shrine (乃木神社 Nogi-jinja) was built in 1917 next to the house of General Nogi Maresuke after his death. There, Nogi Maresuke is celebrated as a Shinto kami (god). 

    The Nogi shrine, in Nogizaka

Nogi Maresuke was a general in the Japanese Imperial Army who became a national hero after leading the Japanese Army that captured Port Arthur from the Russians in the Russo-Japanese war of 1905.   He was widely admired in Japan and worldwide as embodying the best of the Samurai tradition. Under Nogi's leadership "...the conduct of the Japanese during the Russo-Japanese War towards both prisoners and Chinese civilians won the respect, and indeed admiration, of the world."  

   General Nogi (center) with captured Russian gun
    Port Arthur 2-Jan-1905

However Nogi felt deeply responsible for having allowed over 60,000 soldiers, including his own two sons, to be killed.  On the day he returned to Tokyo in triumph and reported to Emperor Meiji, he asked permission to commit suicide in atonement.  "the emperor at first said nothing, but as Nogi was leaving, the emperor called him and said. "I understand very well the feelings that make you want to apologize… but this is not the time for you to die.  If you insist on killing yourself, let it be after I have departed from the world"".  

    Hannah paying her respects to General Nogi at the entrance
    to his garden.

Nogi continued to serve the emperor, and was appointed head of the Gakushu-in (royal school) and mentor to the future Emperor Hirohito.  He spent most of his personal fortune on hospitals for wounded soldiers and monuments to commemorate those killed during the war.

    House of Maresuke Nogi in Nogizaka

Emperor Meji died on 13 September 1912.  "That night as the imperial hearse was leaving the palace, General Nogi Maresuke and his wife, Shizuko, committed junshi (suicide following one's lord) at their residence."   Their suicide created a sensation and controversy.  Although many were deeply moved, their act belonged to a bygone era and was widely criticized.   Nevertheless the Nogi's became a symbol of loyalty and sacrifice, and also loyalty between husband and wife.

    Room in which Nogi Maresuke committed suicide with
    his wife.

Nogi-jinja is a popular place to for marriages,and the  shop sells a range of charms for happy marriage.     We saw this ceremony during our visit.

Amazingly our family has a  Nogi connection because Grandad's second cousin was indirectly named after General Nogi. 

    Granddad inspecting General Nogi's stables
    (and feeling secretly proud that they are not as grand as
    Granddad's own stables at Hakataramea).

William Nogi Hood was born at Mt Somers, in 1905 the year General Nogi captured Port Arthur.   The Russo-Japanese war was enthusiastically reported in New Zealand, partly because it eliminated the perceived Russian threat, and General Nogi was particularly admired.

    Ashburton Guardian, 3-Jan-1905

Nogi Hood died young in 1928.  His sister, Madge Hood, later married George Smith, my great-grand-father Willy's brother.   They lived in Hakataramea and had a son in 1934 named Melville Nogi Smith, who became known as 'Nogi'.   So 'Nogi' and our Hannah are both descended from William Taylor Smith (1844-1902) and Hannah Graham (1845-1926), who are described in my posts of 12-Sep-2007. 

    Cattle Creek School 1944.  Nogi Smith (standing behind
    teacher) and Granddad (next to Nogi, looking away).  

'Nogi' attended Cattle Creek School with Granddad.  During WW2 a school inspector visited and read the roll.  "Nogi" he said "thats interesting -  is it Japanese?"

Count Nogi Maresuke (1849 - 1912).  General of the Imperial Japanese Army, conqueror of Port Arthur, Governor-General of Taiwan, master of Gakushu-in, mentor of Emperor Hirohito,  Order of the Golden Kite, Order of the Rising Sun, Honorary Knight Grand Cross of the Order of the Bath, and shinto god.   Standing before his house in Nogizaka, Tokyo.

Melville Nogi Smith (b1934).  Sheep farmer.    

After the Nogi-jinja we went to Roppongi and enjoyed the view from the roof of the 238m high Roppongi Hills building.

Granny and Grandad with Shinjuku in the distance.

Tokyo from Roppongi Hills.   Panning from Shibuya to the south, then west across Nogizaka and Yoyogi Park, north-west towards Shinjuku, and finally north to the  Roppongi Midtown tower.